The Tirtha Yatra section of India's great epic Mahabharata (500 BC) suggests Pushkar as the starting point of the grand pilgrimage, which continues in a rambling clockwise direction and terminates at Allahabad (Prayag). Pushkar is one of the five Dhams or pilgrimages considered important in Hindu religion, the others being Badrinath, Puri, Rameshwaram and Dwarka. It is believed that the five mythical rivers, Suprabha, Kanaka, Prachi, Nanda and Saraswati flow through this ancient town.

Tranquil and picturesque, Pushkar town lies in a valley just about 14 kms from Ajmer in the North Indian state of Rajasthan. The 'Nag Pahar,' or the Snake Mountain forms a natural boundary between Ajmer and Pushkar. It is on this mountain that Panchkund and the cave of Saint Agastya are located. It is believed that Kalidasa- the 4th century Sanskrit poet and playwright chose to base his masterpiece 'Abhigyana Shakuntalam' in these surroundings. Surrounded by hills on three sides and sand dunes on the other, Pushkar is said to have come into existence when Lord Brahma killed the demon Vajra Nabh with a lotus flower and some lotus petals fell on three spots on the earth, creating the three sacred lakes of Pushkar.

According to legend five hundred temples and fifty-two palaces once surrounded Pushkar Lake.

Temples
Pushkar is a city of temples of all sizes though not as old or as many in number as once proclaimed. Many have been rebuilt and are fairly contemporary, since invaders razed the original temples.

As many as four hundred temples still exist in Pushkar. The most famous is the Brahma temple; worship of Lord Brahma was considered highly important at the end of the first century BC. Brahma was a God of the Aryan invaders and during Vedic times, his cult temporarily displaced the more ancient Shiva and Shakti cults (Refer to Gods Section). A legend recounts how Brahma sought an abode on earth. He descended upon this site to perform a yagna, which could not be performed, as his wife and consort was not present. Brahma, afraid that the auspicious moment would pass, asked Indra to bring a substitute. A young milkmaid, Gayatri was brought to the yagna and the puja performed. When his wife Savitri appeared, she was so enraged that she put a curse upon Brahma - that he would not be worshipped anywhere except in Pushkar and that too only once a year.

The Brahma temple is situated on the western side of the main town area and can be easily identified by its red spire and by the image of a Hansa (the goose considered sacred to Lord Brahma). Built with marble, this temple is decorated with silver coins and has a silver turtle on its floor. The four-headed statue of Brahma in Pushkar is facing in all four directions and is in a seated Palthi (cross-legged) position. Devotees from all over India, to commemorate the births and deaths of their loved ones, have placed the coins studding the floor of the temple. Peacocks, the vehicle of Lord Brahma's consort, adorn the temple walls. A small image of the milkmaid Gayatri flanks the four-faced image of Lord Brahma. The sanctuary has silver doors inside a carved marble gateway.

The Savitri temple is located on the Ratnagiri hill behind the Brahma temple. She is believed to have immolated herself here after cursing her husband. There is a long trek to climb the steps to reach the temple but the panoramic view of the lake and surrounding sand dunes more than compensate.

The Rangji temple is the largest and the most intricate temple of Pushkar. Built in 1920, it is conspicuous by its style of architecture. A team of masons from South India were specially called to build the outer gopuram (arch) over the entrance. Another stone gopuram bears beautiful sculpted images of not less than 360 different deities.

The Varaha temple has an image of Lord Vishnu, life-size dwarpals (door men), and pillars showing the mythical bird, Garuda, styled in gold. The temple houses an image of Vishnu in the incarnation of a wild boar. Lord Vishnu descended on earth incarnated as Varaha to kill the demon Hirnayaksh and liberate the land from its atrocities (Refer to the Gods section). This ancient temple is believed to have been constructed by King Anaji Chauhan in the twelfth century. The Varaha temple was one of the many temples destroyed by Emperor Aurangzeb. It was reconstructed in 1727 by Raja Sawai Jai Singh of Jaipur. The temple has elegant carvings and sculptures.

The Mahadeva temple was built in the 19th century and is well known for its white marble image of Mahadeva with five faces. It is an elegant structure and the statue is adorned with incredible ornaments.

There is also a temple dedicated to Mahalakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth. The Gayatri temple is another important pilgrimage site. Besides these, places like the Gau Ghat, Nag Hill or Yagna Hill, Markandeya Rishi Ashram, Pap Mochini temple, Agastya Muni Ashram and Gaya Kund are also worth a visit.

Most of the temples in Pushkar are located around the lake.

The Pushkar Lake
The Pushkar Lake is considered to be the most sacred lake in India with fifty-two ghats binding it. Its maximum depth is 10 mts. The ritual of taking holy dips is believed to bestow salvation and a holy dip taken in Pushkar lake on Kartik Purnima,(Full moon in the months of Oct-Nov.) the most auspicious of them all. Even before sunrise, people descend the ghats to bathe, many of which have been built over the years by various kings and nobles.

Many ghats have legends attached to their origin. Lord Vishnu is supposed to have appeared at the Varaha Ghat in the form of a boar, Brahma took a bath and performed Yagna at the Brahma Ghat, accompanied by Lord Vishnu and Mahadev. Guru Gobind Singh is believed to have recited the Guru Granth Sahib here. The ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were immersed at the Gandhi Ghat, previously named Gau Ghat. Water around a ghat is believed to have magical powers; for instance, the Naga Kund is believed to bestow fertility, the Roop Tirth, beauty and a dip in Mirkand Muni Kund grants the boon of wisdom!

Brahmin priests or Pandas aid the devotees and offerings of coconut, flowers and cash are made to the lake and the priests. After the holy dip, people proceed to pay homage to the Creator of the Universe, Lord Brahma, at the Jagat Pita Shri Brahma Mandir. Most pilgrims perform the oblations at the Jyestha Pushkar; the oldest of the three lakes, while some opt to visit all the three and this is called the Panch Kosi Parikrama. Aarti is offered at the lake in the morning and evening. It is customary to float lighted earthen lamps after placing them on plates of leaves on the waters of the lake in the evenings while chanting prayers. This ritual adds a magic of its own to the atmosphere.

continue >>

Archive