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The Himalayas with their legendary peaks, sparkling mountain streams and dense forests
have been termed Dev Bhoomi or the land of the Gods. The four shrines of Yamunotri,
Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath - known as the Char Dham (or four starting points)
- were established in the Garhwal and Kumaon areas of the Himalayas as the holiest
Hindu shrines, whose tour or yatra would bring instant salvation to devotees. Yamunotri
and Gangotri are revered as the sources of the two most holy rivers in India, the
Yamuna and the Ganga. Kedarnath and Badrinath have shrines dedicated to Gods Shiva
and Vishnu. Known as Kedarkhand in ancient scriptures these Dhams receive their
holy waters in the form of four streams, Yamuna in Yamunotri, Bhagirathi in Gangotri,
Mandakini in Kedarnath and Alaknanda in Badrinath. The holy confluence of these
rivers plus the legends associated with their creation, all combine to make the
Char Dham pilgrimage essential for one's salvation. When undertaking the pilgrimage
to Badrinath, Kedarnath, Yamunotri and Gangotri, traditionally, the yatra or pilgrimage
is carried out from west to east - starting with Yamunotri, it proceeds to Gangotri,
then to Kedarnath and Badrinath.
Yamunotri & Gangotri
India has several great rivers, with several significant sources, but Yamuna and
Ganga are rivers that are embedded deeply within Indian religion and tradition.
Not only are they mentioned in the Indian national anthem, but even some juice stalls
call a combination of orange and sweet lime juice, Ganga-Yamuna! The source of these
two great rivers is surely worth a visit, to uncover some of the most beautiful
and accessible walking in the Himalayas; for the romance of being there, and for
being the first to touch the waters, before they go down to millions in the plains
below.
Yamunotri
Yamunotri is the first stopover for the Char Dham yatra and the westernmost shrine
in the Garhwal Himalayas. Worshipped as the source of the holy Yamuna River, it
lies high up in a deep cleft on the western face of the Banderpunch peak , 3293
m above sea level. Famous for its thermal springs and glaciers, Yamunotri is very
close to the Indo-Chinese border. Technically the source of the river is on the
Champasar glacier at Saptarishi Kund (12 km further up at a height of 4421 m), but
it is at Yamunotri that pilgrims come to worship the Goddess Yamuna and bathe in
its chilled waters 223 km from Rishikesh, this mountain shrine is one of the most
difficult to access.
The temple at Yamunotri was built by Maharani Gularia of Jaipur in the 19th century.
It was destroyed by a major earthquake in 1923, and subsequently rebuilt, and the
process had to be repeated when it was once again damaged in 1982. Located at a
height of 3030 m, about 6 km below the glacier, the temple is dedicated to the river
Yamuna, who is represented in the form of a silver idol, bedecked with garlands.
According to legend, Yamuna is the daughter of Surya, the Sun God, and Sangya, the
Goddess of Consciousness. Yamuna is also the sister of Yama, the God of Death, and
therefore anyone bathing in the waters of the river is spared a painful death.
The hot water pool or Surya Kund adjacent to the temple is used to prepare
the prasad or holy offerings to the Goddess, normally rice and potatoes, cooked
by dipping into the hot water tied in cloth bags. The temperature here is as high
as 87.7 degrees celsius. Pilgrims make their offerings at the temple itself, since
the approach to the source of Yamunotri is extremely difficult. Divya Shila
is a blessed or heavenly rock pillar that is worshipped by the pilgrims before they
enter the Yamunotri temple.
The Pilgrimage
The last bus stop to Yamunotri is at Hanuman Chatti, which is 14 km away. As the
pilgrims start their walk they are confronted by a magnificent vista, a wall of
icy peaks, with sheer rocks and glaciers of ice, but the crashing of the river alongside,
the sprinkling of wild flowers on the path lend the walk a charm of its own.. However,
on the more practical side, the so-called path to heaven is often paved with horse
dung, as hordes of pilgrims, mule backed, palanquined and on foot, make their way
upwards. Travelling along the Yamuna for about 6 km from Hanuman Chatti one reaches
Phul Chatti, beyond which the trail widens and leads to Janki Chatti, with its sulphur
springs. Off the main trail for about a km across the river, is the village of Kharsali,
home to the pandas (priests) of the Yamunotri temple. This traditional village with
stone houses and elaborately carved wooden structures has a triple storeyed Shiva
temple dedicated to Someshwar, an incarnation of Shiva. From here, the trail gets
steeper and more rugged, all the way up till Yamunotri. The walk from Jankichatti
to Yamunotri is about 5 km and can take anything between 3 to 5 hours each way,
depending on how fast or slow one walks.
There is a nondescript temple at Yamunotri that virtually has to be rebuilt after
each winter, several small stalls selling all varieties of offerings, and an impossible
bridge over the river made from strips of corrugated metal and just the thought
of crossing that bridge bring reams of prayers and pleas to mind! But if the sun
is out, the peaks sparkling and the air bitingly clear there is no better place
to be.
Excursions
Saptarishi Kund Lake is situated 10 km from Yamunotri. This is an extremely
difficult journey on a route covered with ice and is the actual place where Yamuna
rises. On the banks of the lake are naturally carved slate stones. The rare Brahma
Lotus grows here. Yamunotri is famous for its trekking routes and apart from its
famous route from Hanuman Chatti to Yamunotri, the Dodi Tal trek linking
Gangotri and Yamunotri is a famous trekking route which is about 60 km long and
takes about four days to complete.
Best time to Visit
May through to October.
Where to Stay
There are GMVN Tourist Bungalows at Hanuman Chatti and Janki Chatti along the way,
as well as one in Yamunotri. In addition there is a cluster of private guesthouses
and dharamshalas that offer accommodation at cheap rates. Only vegetarian food is
served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited. Carry adequate
woollens, including blankets, since the accommodation is very basic.
Accessibility
Airport
Jolly Grant, Dehradun, 196 km from Yamunotri.
By Rail
Nearest railheads are at Rishikesh 213 km, Dehradun 172 km.
By Road
The nearest road head is at Hanuman Chatti, 14 km short of the shrine. Regular buses
ply from Rishikesh (210 km from Hanuman Chatti), taking about 9 hours to reach.
Hanuman Chatti is also connected by bus to Dehradun and Mussoorie. From here, the
path to Yamunotri can be covered either on foot or on hired ponies.
Gangotri
At a distance of 105 km from the town of Uttarkashi lies Gangotri, the spiritual
source of the Ganges river, though its actual source is the ice cave of Gaumukh,
18 km up the Gangotri glacier. Here, Ganga is known as Bhagirathi, named after the
ancient king Bhagirath who prayed to bring her down from the heavens. Another major
tributary, the Alaknanda emerges from near Badrinath and joins the Bhagirathi at
Devprayag to become the magnificent Ganga. Considered the most sacred of all rivers,
this great life-giver of India continues to be worshipped as a Goddess. Bathing
in Her waters brings deliverance from sins committed in the present and all past
births. In the earlier days, pilgrims could reach here only after a long walk filled
with hardships, but now a motorway reaches right up to the temple.
The shrine of Gangotri is set amidst rugged mountains and overlooks the thundering
river at 3048 m. The original temple was constructed by the Gurkha Commander Amar
Singh Thapa in the 18th century but was later rebuilt by the Maharaja of Jaipur.
Legend has it that Goddess Ganga manifested herself in the form of a river to absolve
the sins of King Bhagirath`s predecessors, following his severe penance of several
centuries. She, therefore, came to be called Bhagirathi at her legendary source.
Lord Shiva received the mighty Ganga into his matted locks in order to minimize
the immense impact of her fall. In fact, submerged in the river is a natural rock
shivling, where Lord Shiva sat when he received the Goddess Ganga in his matted
locks. It is usually visible in the winter months when the water level decreases.
It is believed that Raja Bhagirath used to worship Lord Shiva on a slab of rock
called "Bhagirath Shila" situated near the temple. According to another legend,
Pandavas performed the great Deva Yagna here to atone the deaths of their kinsmen
in the epic battle of Mahabharata.
The temple is an exquisite 6 m high structure made of white granite, decorated with
a gilded roof crowned with a central spire. The gates of the temple are opened on
a fixed date in May, one day before the gates open in summer, the statue is taken
in a procession on a cart with a lot of pomp and show. The gates are closed again
for winter on the day of Deepavali (festival of lamps). It is believed that the
Goddess retreats to Mukhba, her winter abode, 12 km downstream. On reaching
the shrine, pilgrims offer prayers at the temple and go down to the main bathing
ghat for their holy dip. Dev ghat, down below and set amidst tall trees,
is the confluence of Bhagirathi with the Kedar Ganga. At Gaurikund magnificent waterfalls
create a pool, which is reached through forest paths along the Gangotri gorge and
over a rope bridge across the mighty river.
The Pilgrimage
The road to Bhojbasa, 14 km from Gangotri, starts at the front courtyard of the
Gangotri temple. Steps lead up from the temple to join the trail leading to the
Gangotri glacier and the ice cave of Gaumukh. A steep climb of some 94 steps takes
one to the pathway. The climb is quite tiring and leaves even the hardiest trekker
panting for breath. Thereafter, the path is even and gentle. The whole route is
surrounded by deodar, birch and padma trees. One can enjoy the beauty of the Ganga
flowing a few thousand feet below on one's right side. The greenery thins out within
the first few kilometers out of Gangotri only to reappear near Chirbasa. Chirbasa
is still thickly wooded but from Chirbasa the landscape becomes more barren and
one begins to feel the effect of altitude for the first time. The valley of Bhojbasa
is 5.6 km from Chirbasa. While proceeding on the last leg to Gaumukh, one can rest
for the night at the picturesque hamlet of Bhojbasa, from where a 5 km trail leads
up to the source of the Bhagirathi at Gaumukh. There is a picturesque campsite beside
the river. Legend of KedarLiterally meaning `mouth of the cow', Gaumukh reflects
the shape of the glacier. The river comes out of a cavernous opening in the glacier,
with large chunks of ice crashing down into the waters.
Excursions
Gaumukh Glacier, 18 km from Gangotri, this is where the Ganga rises. The
river Bhagirathi has its springs here. Gaumukh is at a height of 4200 m above sea
level. The sages called it 'Gaumukh', because in the distant past, it probably appeared
like a cow's mouth, though it doesn't appear so today. Pilgrims trek up to the sacred
spot on foot or on ponies to take a holy dip in the ice-cold water.
6 km ahead of Gaumukh are Nandanvan and Tapovan which are on well-known
trekking routes and surrounded by a line of majestic peaks, including Bhagirathi,
Shivling and the Kedar Dome (6831 m).
Kedar Tal is 17 km from Gangotri. Situated at a height of 5000 m, this is
where the Kedar Ganga originates. The crystal waters of the lake reflect a line
of Himalayan peaks, including the Thalesagar (6904 m), Bhrigupanth (6772 m) and
the Jogin group. Travelling along the Kedar Ganga for about 8 km one reaches the
pastures of Bhoj Kharak. From here, pine forests give way to birch trees, the bark
of which was used to write on in ancient times.
Uttarkashi, 99 km away, is also an important pilgrimage centre, situated
at an elevation of 1150 m above sea level on the bank of river Bhagirathi. Some
of the important temples worth visiting here are - Vishwanath temple, Ekadash Rudra
temple, Gyaneshwar temple and Kuteti Devi Temple. Nearby is the Nehru Institute
of Mountaineering. Every year, during the 'Magh Mela' people visit Uttarkashi to
take a holy dip in Bhagirathi along with the image of their village deity.
Best time to Visit
May through to October. Gangotri remains snowbound during winter from November till
April. Only when the snow melts can one reach the shrine, although temperatures
remain low even in summers.
The main pilgrim rush is usually around June, when the town becomes an overcrowded
mess. Monsoons are bad for travelling because of the landslides. From September
again the weather is clear and the roads easier to travel on.
Where to stay
Gangotri has a collection of private hotels, ashrams as well as a GMVN Tourist rest
house. The Forest Rest House near the river has a very attractive setting and can
be booked through the Divisional Forest Officer at Uttarkashi.
At Bhojvasa there is a tourist guest house , Lalbihari Ashram and a few lodges.
Small hotels and cottages are also available in the vicinity. The tiny hamlet of
Harsil, at the bottom of the Gangotri gorge, also has a GMVN Guest House. Only vegetarian
food is served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited. Be
sure to carry adequate woollens, including blankets, since resources can get stretched
during the peak season.
Accessibility
Airport
Jolly Grant, Dehradun 226 km.
Railhead
Rishikesh 249 km.
Road
Regular bus services connect Gangotri with Rishikesh. Uttarkashi, further north
and 97 km from Gangotri, is the other major town on the road; buses, private taxis
as well as shared jeeps are available to reach the shrine. The road leads right
up to Gangotri, though parts of it may be blocked occasionally by landslides.
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