History
To the Hindus their connection with Mansarovar stretches back two millennia. In ancient times, it took years for sages and saints to reach Mt. Kailash, as they performed the journey on foot, but they performed the pilgrimage regardless. Antonio Andrade, an early 17th century Jesuit missionary to the court of Akbar, the Mogul emperor, and also to the Tibetan kingdom of Guge, was the first European to record a view of the peak. It was then forgotten by Europeans until Younghusband's British expedition came upon it in the early 19th century.

The Jesuit missionaries, Father Ippolito Desideri and Manuel Freyre, passed this way enroute to Lhasa from Ladakh in 1715. However, it was not until the 20th century that Sven Hedin - the Swedish adventurer and explorer, made the parikrama or circumambulation of Mt. Kailash. Driven by a thirst for heroic achievement Hedin endured great hardships while crossing the Northern Tibetan plain and at one time travelled for 80 days without seeing another human being.

The unquestioned expert on Kailash and Mansarovar was the energetic Swami Pranavanand, who, between 1928 and 1949, made 25 circuits of the mountain and 23 of the lake and wrote a pilgrim guidebook crammed with a mixture of scientific and spiritual observations.

The pilgrims' trail continued unbroken for over a thousand years until the Chinese army entered Tibet and the Sino-Indian border clashes in 1959 sealed off all the routes for a few years. Now the Tibetans are allowed a degree of religious freedom and monasteries which had been destroyed have been rebuilt, with prayer flags and monuments once again lining the parikrama paths. Pilgrims are returning to Kailash and Mansarovar in increasing numbers.

Possible Routes
There are 3 ways to reach Mt. Kailash from India.

1. The official northern trekking route through Uttaranchal upto the Lipulekh pass. The Indian govt. organises these tours but this 30 day trek has to be booked well in advance and there is no certainty that one can go despite being in good physical shape, because the number of seats is limited. This is, however the oldest known route in which most of the trip involves trekking for about 300 km. One can reach Kailash Mansarovar through Dharchula - Tawaghat - Lipulekh - Darna and Johar valleys.

2. By air to Kathmandu and from there by road to Lake Mansarovar and the base of Kailash which is a total journey of 900 km. This is quite a popular route.

3. Shorter helicopter tours of Kailash from Lhasa, for those who are short of time and cannot take the rigours of a gruelling high altitude road journey.

The actual duration of each trip varies according to the number of places visited and the kind of tours organised.

The Pilgrimage
The trekking route in India originates from the Kumaon hills, and takes one through lush green forests and mountains. Part of the trek is along the surging river Kali. Many places enroute have little temples of Lord Shiva with the lingam or a statue of the Lord. At Kalapani a small pool under a huge rock is considered the source of the river Kali. Musk deer and Monal can be seen in the pine and juniper forests on this route. It is said that the slopes on the peak of the mountain facing the Indian camp at Nabhidang are so carved by nature as to retain snow in such a way that forms a distinctive, natural "OM".

On this route, one enters Tibet at the Lipulekh pass at a height of 5334 m. After descending the pass area, there is no further trekking involved as there are ponies to take the pilgrims down to the waiting bus for Taklakot, a small town in the Purang region of Tibet, situated on the banks of the Karnali river, about 50 km from Lipulekh Pass. The drive to Mt. Kailash itself is rather difficult over poorly maintained and almost non-existent roads.

On the route through Kathmandu in Nepal, one crosses the Tibet border at Zhangmu followed by night halts at Nyalam, Paiku Tso Lake, Saga, Paryang and Manasarovar.

Darchen, a small wind-blown settlement on Kailash's southern slope at 5180 m is the base camp for the parikrama of Kailash Parvat. The name Darchen is derived from the Sanskrit word "darshan" meaning sacred sight. This small village has a couple of guesthouses and is flooded with pilgrims during the auspicious pilgrimage time. The traditional parikrama route of Mt. Kailash is 53 km long and can be done comfortably in three days. The highest point of the pilgrimage is the Drolma Pass (Drolma is the Tibetan name for Taradevi, Lord Shiva's mother) at a height of 5750 m. This pass is said to belong to Devi Parvat and is very significant spiritually. Crossing this pass is likened to a transition from one life to another. It is believed that the body of the pilgrim transforms itself into a celestial body upon crossing this pass. This second day of the parikrama is the most difficult as one ascends from Dhira Puk to the 5750 m high Drolma Pass, where there normally is a lot of snow. The weather can be pretty unpredictable at this point and one may encounter drizzle or a snowstorm. The descent from Drolma Pass is steep and the route thereafter on a plain level.

Shortly after the Drolma Pass is a large lake called Gauri Kund. It is the lake where Goddess Parvati is said to have bathed and done penance for 50 years to win the heart of Lord Shiva. Gauri Kund, at 5608 m, is actually a group of five small kunds of different shapes. There is no chance of taking a dip in Gauri Kund, as it is just below Drolma pass and it is extremely cold and windy. Also, it is 300-400 ft below the trekking route so though one can clearly see it, one does not pass alongside it.

At Dhira Puk one gets the closest view of the peak, especially its southern "Sapphire" face, which is also known as "Stairway to Heaven", because its brownish red base is halved by a vertical slash. One should attempt walking the entire distance including the trek up the Drolma, only if one is extremely fit physically.

In Darchen substitutes can be hired to perform the arduous journey for the indolent or ill. The religious merit is shared between the sponsor and the one who actually walks the path.

Although the parikrama of Mansarovar is longer than that of Kailash Parvat, it is more or less completely on plains, covering a distance of around 75 km. The route for Mansarovar parikrama goes along the circumference of Mansarovar Lake. The pilgrims start from Hore and reach Chugu, where there is a monastery with a statue of Buddha, covering about 45 km in a day. Zaidi is the last point of Mansarovar parikrama and is 35 km away from Chugu. Here the parikrama is deemed complete. At Zaidi, pilgrims pay their obeisance through a havan to mark the completion of the yatra. The holy dip in Mansarovar should ideally be done when there is bright sunlight and no winds. The northern shore of the lake is not usually covered as part of the parikrama because of marshes and cliffs that prevent the pilgrims from approaching the shoreline.

Shopping
The markets of Taklasar, Purang, Shimling Monastery or Similar Gompa are some possible shopping stops for the pilgrims coming for the Yatra. Herbal incense and vibhuti or holy ash is available at the monasteries or gompas one visits enroute.

Best Time to go
The Tibet plateau is a dry region, with little rain so any month between May-Sept is good weather-wise although May and Sept are colder months. Daytime is pleasant and quite warm with temperatures ranging between 15 and 20 degrees Celsius with windy afternoons. The morning and evening are chilly and temperatures range between minus 8 to 0 degrees Celsius. Rain and snow showers can occur any time.

Like all journeys to remote and inaccessible regions, there is ample scope for the unexpected. Landslides and other impediments do occur with reasonable frequency. During most of the year a pilgrim should be prepared to wade across small and large streams in the vicinity of Mansarovar. The best time to circle Mansarovar is in late autumn and early spring when the streams and rivers flowing into the lake are low. Most trips to Kailash Mansarovar are planned to arrive during the full moon period to give all pilgrims a total and unhindered view of the holy mountain.

Food
Only vegetarian meals are partaken during the yatra. These can be supplemented by carrying high energy snacks like chocolates, dry fruits, toffees etc. Basic lodges and tea-houses can be found in some places, but the plateau is so remote that it may be possible to travel for several days without finding any food.

Accommodation
Night halts are organized in tents on camping sites along the way. Food, fuel and camping equipment are usually carried by the organizers during the trip. All these facilities are arranged in Tibet also. Recently an Ashram and clinic has been inaugurated on the banks of Lake Mansarovar which is open to pilgrims as well as the local families in the region. It is the first ever ashram to be built on the shores of Mansarovar.

The Rigours of the Route
Travels in the sub-continent cannot get any tougher or more spiritual than the incredible journey to Mt. Kailash. It is one of the toughest land journeys on earth. The pilgrims have to pass through difficult, variable terrain and extreme weather conditions. Due to the high altitude, prime physical fitness is a pre-requisite, but that is not all, both physical and mental toughness are required to complete this trip. Mental preparation means being absolutely positive about completing the journey. In this rigorous and challenging trip, considerable time is spent with minimum comforts at high altitudes, therefore one has to depend on personal reserves of strength and stamina.

Roads are almost non-existent and one travels over the Tibetan highlands, sometimes undertaking 8-10 hrs of rigorous travel of 300 km per day, amidst a whirlwind of dust and cold winds, fording rivers and streams, driving through mud and slush.

Earlier the only route available to the pilgrim from India was the treacherous and arduous 30-day tour cum trek through Uttaranchal over the high Lipulekh Pass into Tibet. This limited the options of the devout that were not so fit either due to age or other health reasons. But nowadays, trekking is required only during the 3 day Kailash parikrama when one has to cross the steep Drolma Pass. However, yaks can be hired locally on this parikrama and pilgrims need not trek the entire distance.

Nowadays this journey has been made a wee-bit easier as various tour operators organise the trip in relative comfort in 4-wheel drive Land cruisers. A support truck usually carries the necessary camping gear and supplies. Campsites are well chosen, and the guide and crew are knowledgeable and experienced. Private tours usually carry oxygen cylinders and a personal altitude chamber (PAC) that helps greatly in tackling AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) and other serious forms of high altitude sickness.

Some Suggestions
Due to the high altitude of this area, pilgrims may experience the effect of altitude sickness, which is characterized by mild headaches, nausea, and loss of appetite. Altitude sickness can be reduced by frequently drinking non-alcoholic liquids such as water and juice. Those with health conditions including asthma, diabetes, high blood pressure, epilepsy and cardiac problems should seek a doctor's approval before embarking on this journey. Medical facilities in Tibet are very basic if at all available. Bringing one's own first aid kit with medicines and supplies is recommended.

It is advisable to bring enough warm clothing to cope with the harsh and changeable weather conditions. Due to frequent changes in temperature, even moving from inside the land cruiser where it is warm, to cooler outside temperatures, is a tricky proposition. The weather is so unpredictable in Tibet that it is best to prepare for the worst weather conditions. Clothes for both warm and cold periods are essential. The weather can be very fickle in the daytime and can vary from cold weather in the mornings and evenings to blistering sun in the afternoons. Film-rolls, medicines, personal toilet items including sunscreen lotion should also be carried as these are difficult to obtain. A scarf or dust mask to protect the eyes and nose from dust, as well as sunglasses to protect eyes from the UV glare would be very useful.

Rewards
The pilgrimage is tough and without any comforts, but the successful completion of the trip far outweighs the discomforts faced enroute. It is undoubtedly the toughest and most rewarding of all pilgrimages known to man.

One travels for days without a sight of a store, telephone or buildings, other than sheet metal or mud shacks among thousands of sand mountains and rivers running into nameless lakes. Suddenly the sand and tumbleweed landscape gives way to a crystal lake, sprinkled with purple and blue hues as the evening sun casts its last rays of light upon the waters. This pool of lush beauty almost seems a mirage in this arid land and just as suddenly man is transported to another realm and another time.

Russell Johnson and Kerry Moran describe this pilgrimage more than adequately. In their words, "The reality of Kailash is of a sort approached not by logic, but by faith - and this is not blind belief, but simply a confidence in the validity of experience beyond the realm of facts and senses. This is the secret of all rituals of pilgrimage, the prostrations and mantras and circumambulations, the piled stones and tattered prayer flags. Their importance is not in the acts themselves, but in the attitude they create: an openness to a higher state of being, a profound reverence for the natural perfection expressed by Kailash and Mansarovar and a belief in the potential in every being to touch that perfection. This, for the lack of a better word is faith and those who come without, only to look, will only find the barest realities of mountain and lake. Inevitably they are disappointed, for they are searching without what can only be found within. But those who come in true sincerity, whatever their beliefs, are the real pilgrims, and they find what they seek, not only within the lake and atop the mountains, but present all around, in the air, in the light, the power of the sun and the restless touch of the wind. It is a power tangible to those who have the capacity to feel it but otherwise invisible and unprovable."

- Bindu Bhadana

<< back

Archive