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The Pachala Someshwara temple
This temple is within the village of Panagal itself, but you can miss it unless
you get very specific instructions indeed. On the main street past the central junction
of the village is a modern temple. You have to make a right turn before that into
a little lane to reach the old temple. Be very sure to ask many times as the contemporary
concrete monstrosity is what you will be directed to by villagers who cannot fathom
why you want to travel so far to see an old stone temple when they have a spanking
new one at hand! There are no sign boards telling you when to turn as that would
be too obvious and simple to do. Until you actually hit the gate you are sure that
this cannot be the place as it is crowded and close. Then, the space magically clears
up to reveal the temple and you are in a wide open enclosure which even has an Archeological
Survey museum within!
The Pachala Someshwara temple is unusual in that the builders were never clear what
they wanted to
convey. It is actually a rectangular hall with a temple superstructure, row after
row of pillars splitting the interior into aisles. At the moment (July 2004) the
temple is undergoing extensive repair work but the pace of operations would give
snails a superiority complex. The museum-in- charge was still on his 'lunch break'
at four in the afternoon so that might explain things. There are three shrines dedicated
to the big three of Hinduism, Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, but in practical terms it
is a purely Shiva temple. They have a literal Yupa Sthamba in place here, something
I have never seen before. The uniqueness of the temple lies in its sculpture. In
terms of density this temple should be the champion. The bizarre ambition
of the sculptors was to represent every important myth of the Hindu tradition upon
its walls pillars and ceilings and I think they achieved it. Everything is crammed
tightly in place with a weird exuberance that you cannot but admire. Shiva stories,
Vishnu stories, Skanda, Ganapati, Durga everybody is present and saving the world
from the forces of evil. In the
middle of all this minute detail they even carved a truly magnificent life-size
Nandi. The Astha Digha Palikas are more conventionally represented here. It is a
live temple, with regular worship, and the energy is palpable. The outside walls
are decorated with abandon, in a style never before tried, as vertical lines of
scrolls are interspersed with carvings of the gods. Everywhere there is Kirtimukha,
laughing down at you. It is simply impossible to take it all in at one go. You have
to section the temple off and then look carefully and in detail. So much is, not
hidden, as much as veiled, and only patient observation will reveal the egoless
effort of the artist.
I was reminded of the old verse:
"In the elder days of art
Builders wrought with greatest care
Each minute and unseen part
For the gods see everywhere."
There is a dancing Ganapati carved in an obscure corner, a spectacular little joke
actually, as this now ubiquitous representation was then a sensational departure
from tradition. There is a Vishnu, in the form of a great boar, frantically digging
below his panel to find the origin of the great Pillar that is Shiva. There is the
great hero of the Mahabharata, Bheema Karma Vrikodara, "The wolf-bellied
Bheema of the terrible deeds", clubbing unfortunate elephants to death in battle.
Quite a few of the images have been deliberately disfigured by what the guidebooks
coyly refer to as 'vandals' - i.e. Muslim invaders from the north of India. And
of course there are the Apsaras, little masterpieces in their own right and obviously
the product of a talented artist working alone instead of part of a mass producing
team.
The museum is worth a visit for the sculpture garden they have created. The interior
of the museum is too preachy, determined to educate you, stylistic and historic
continuity be damned. The sculpture garden however has some beautiful examples of
Kakatiya art and they are artifacts with presence. Of special note are the seated
Ganesha, a veritable rock of rocks, earth energy incarnate; a Bhairava, Shiva in
his wildest and most bizarre form; a remarkably elegant Kirtimukha and the most
beautiful piece of Nagini sculpture I have ever seen.
How to get there
By air
Hyderabad city is the closest airport.
By rail
Nalgonda is the nearest station at hand from where Panagal is very close by road.
However, Hyderabad makes a better jumping off point.
By road
Panagal is surprisingly well served by an extremely good road from Hyderabad which
is about 100 kms away. However, distances are deceptive as rapid urbanization means
you are still in dense traffic well beyond city limits.
The best route out of Hyderabad is to take the airport road out of the city and
proceed towards Tarnaka. The road signs are fairly simple to follow but fading and
high overhead! From there you proceed to Uppal and take a right turn from the central
square towards L.B. Nagar. A left turn from L.B. Nagar, you have to traverse the
length of it, takes you towards Nalgonda town. It is helpful to note that you have
to pass the Ramoji Film City which is becoming a tourist site. On the road there
will be no indications about Panagal . Look out for signs indicating Suryapeth or
alternatively Suriapet. [No two signs agree upon spelling.] Panagal is after Suryapeth
and before Nalgonda. Ask and ask again.
The best people to make enquires from are auto rickshaw drivers and goods transporters.
Other people may or may not be aware of Panagal , and politeness issues may find
you hopelessly misdirected. Ask for Panagal Devalayam, as temples are called Devalayam
in Andhra Pradesh. In Panagal Village itself, do not be discouraged by the populace's
seeming incomprehension or ignorance. Somebody will ultimately guide you right.
At both places they are liable to tell you the other temple does not exist! Ignore
that and persist in asking for them.It is best if you have your own vehicle as local
transportation is not frequent or adequate and is inevitably laidback.
Where to stay
There is supposed to be a local government rest house at Panagal . We could not
locate it. Presumably they were on a lunch break too. Staying at Nalgonda is best
if you are willing to rough it. About 10-12 kms before Panagal , on the left side
of the road, is a restaurant of sorts in rusty orange with a vast parking area.
It is unmistakable and it also offers dormitory accommodation. Be sure to take large
amounts of mosquito repellant and personal toiletries. Panagal itself has no place
to eat in, so carry food with you, or eat at this highway stop or eat heavily before
setting off from Hyderabad. Menus in the interior are primarily decorative objects,
so save time and ask what they have first.
Readers Contribution
The easiest way to get to Panagal is to proceed towards Suryapet from Hyderabad
and, on the way, take the second turn towards Nalgonda city after the town of Narkatpalli.
Most importantly, I think I was able to find the reason for the shadow at the temple.
If you sit in front of the lingam you will see two shadows of yourself on either
side of the lingam, this is your first clue. Now, if you enter the room where the
lingam is and look outward from behind the lingam, all will be clear. The light
comes into the room from between two sets of pillars, forming two white patches
of light on either side of the lingam. The "shadow" in the middle is just the space
where no light falls. If you recall Youngs Double Slit experiment from school, that
is like what the architects have achieved at the temple. The two virtual sources
of light on the wall form an area of darkness in the middle that looks like a pillar.
- Mr. Sugata Mitra, India
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